Southward Bound!

The sunset in Soverato, Calabria

So then! After by good friend Brooke left Roma, I spent two days in my new apartment and then I was off again. My friend Amy and I were heading south to the region of Calabria and then to Sicily.

Amy with our fierce ride....the FIAT PANDA

A word about Amy. She just might be the coolest ever. I met Amy in Berlitz teacher training and we immediately clicked. We both have a mid-western sense of humor (whatever that means) and we spent a lot of the training cracking each other up. It seemed that we were living parallel lives for a little while there with our work experience, travels abroad, and just general interests. Amy's got this awesome energy. She's admiringly honest and truthful and incredibly generous. You can't walk into Amy's house without getting wine, cheese, or a meal. So, when Amy even uttered the words road trip I jumped on board.

The Panda comes with many features such as the spacious back seat, great for  a night's sleep

Amy took the front

We rented a Fiat Panda, a little car that not only got us where we needed to go, but also provided lodging for us one night when we decided not to spend the money on an over-priced hotel room by the sea. We also met up with Amy's friend, Sara, in a little sea side town called Davoli near Soverato, and got a chance to swim in the beautiful Ionian Sea, hang out on the beach for a little while, and do some line dancing with some old folks--you know the usual.

Miz Amy and our awesome guide Sara right before we joined in the dancing

Calabria

From there we were headed along the coast to Locri, another seaside town in Calabria. Some of the towns we drove through seemed like really cool places, but once we got to Locri we found that we weren't all that impressed so we kept right on moving and headed up the mountain until we stumbled upon the medieval village of Gerace. It was like no place I'd ever been before; small, with everything made of stone, and most streets barely big enough to fit even the smallest car. You get the feeling that Gerace in present day isn't all that different than it was hundreds of years ago, that its preserved its most important features in a way that many other towns and villages have lost. Gerace is basically perched up on a rock-hill made of what used to be sea fossils and has a fantastic view of countryside, mountains, and the water. Determined not to spend another night in the Fiat, we found a really awesome, quaint place called Il Giardino di Gerace. The man who runs Il Giardino, Fernando, was a linguist, a historian, and a teacher who told us everything under the sun about Gerace. He was so helpful in fact, that when the internet was down, he sent me to his son-in-laws house (just a few confusing, winding streets away) with his wife as my guide. I would definitely like to spend more time there.

The view from our hotel in Gerace

Gerace

Porta in Gerace

We then followed the coast to the toe of the boot where we dropped off our beloved Panda for the ferry to Sicily and then the train to Palermo to meet our wonderful friend, host, and Sicilian native, Antonino. We also met up with Erich as soon as we got to Palermo since he couldn't sit home and let me have all the fun!

Sicily was such an amazing mix of cultural flavors. It's been invaded by the Greeks, the Normans, and the Arabs among others, and for a long time has felt both pulled to the unified pride of Italy and disenfranchised from it. It still has a large mafia presence (I probably referenced The Godfather about 10 minimum each day we were there) and some of the richest food to be found. I saw a man in Messina eat a piece of lasagna as big as your head in three huge, quick bites and then immediately ask for another with cheeks still full of pasta. That's love.

Dessert night with our great hosts

Erich and Amy in Palermo

As soon as I planned this trip to Sicily, I knew I was going to be in Cannoli Heaven, but I had no idea just how good they were going to be. It was like a little bit of heaven on earth. One night we went out with the sole intention of trying Sicily's best and most typical desserts. It was like my birthday times a thousand. My favorite, however, is still and forever will remain Cannoli. When I think of my "happy place" it always includes a Cannolo. Among my favorite things about Palermo was the diverse architecture, the brilliant sea, and the amazing food (of course). Antonino did such a great job showing us the best of Palermo and even endured a pretty vicious encounter with a jelly fish just to show us the best seaside views.

The Norman Catedral in Palermo

Abandoned, earthquake stricken building

Behold the beauty and wonder of The Cannoli

Took a visit to Monreale outside of Palermo

The clouds slowly crept down on this mountain

Although the trip southward wore me out, I couldn't have asked for more, and can't wait to go back to Sicily for more exploring.

Allow me to back up....

Me and Brooke in Pompei

Beautiful Capri

Me and Erich on the island of Ischia

One of the petrified people in Pompei

Brooke and Tim in Pompei

At dinner in Napoli

Okay. So that was a long break with no writing. After receiving the appropriate amount of flack from family and friends, I am now ready to resume writing. Sorry y'all.

I have been "on vacation" for the entire month of August now. Although I understand how lucky I am to have an entire month vacation in Italy, I gotta say I am BEAT! You know how you always feel like you need a vacation from your vacation? That's kinda how I feel. Traveling is tiring and expensive and I feel like I just need to be stationary for a while. In the midst of all these travels we've moved apartments, yet I haven't been in my apartment for more than 5 days in the entire month. Therefore, I'm looking forward to actually making it feel like home, getting to know the new roomies, and dare I say it--I'm actually excited to go back to work.

So what have I been doing? The month started out great with my amica Brooke and her boyfriend Tim coming for a visit. It was really nice to see and catch up with Brooke and even better to be able to have new travel companions. With them, Erich and I traveled to Naples and it's surrounding hot spots; Pompei, Ischia, and Capri. Naples kind of gets a bad rap, I think. Even mention that you are going to Napoli and you will have 10 Italians on your ass telling you to watch your bags, beware of pickpockets, don't trust anybody, BUT PLEASE do enjoy the pizza. Naples considers itself the birthplace of pizza and as a city it is very proud of its culinary traditions, so we took full advantage of not only the pizza but also the seafood while there. Brooke and Tim were as fearless eaters as Erich and I, so between the 4 of us we got to try everything. I headed back to Naples later in the month with my family and at that point I determined, not only did I think all the negative comments about Napoli were a little overdone, but that they were also unfair and misleading. Yes, in and around the central train station is a bit sketchy as are some select other areas, but get outside of that and you can find the best that Italy has to offer; a proud and vibrant culture, awesome music, delicious food, a unique dialect of the language, friendly people, strength in the face of poverty and adversity, rich heritage....okay okay, you get the picture, needless to say I really loved Napoli. I read something in my guidebook before we went that said something to the effect of, "stay in Napoli one day and you will hate it, stay two weeks and you will love it, stay one month and you will never want to leave." I can definitely see this to be true.

Brooke and Tim weren't only great travel buddies, but they were also EXTREMELY helpful. When we returned to Rome they helped us move all of our stuff (which has been accumulating at a faster rate than I had anticipated) across town to our new place. I don't know what we would have done without them! But, I also just had so much fun hanging out with Brooke. I think she brings out my inner untapped indulgences driving me to dress up once and a while and wear make up just for the fun of it. She's just a fun person altogether, so you can't help but have fun when she's around. As soon as Brooke left, I immediately wanted her to come back.

I didn't have too much time to sulk however as two days later I was heading out on a mini-road trip to Calabria and Palermo with my friend Amy.....

Me and Brooke up on my roof

The four of us got all gussied up and went to a nice dinner. Brooke let me borrow this lovely dress!

Vacanza

Okay. I know I haven't written in a while. This blog, like most of Italy in August, has been put on hold for vacation season. Truly, Rome has cleared out except for tourists, everything is so quiet! There are signs on every other shop, store, vendor that explains that they are closed and giving the dates they will re-open. Everyone is on vacation. I am off of work until September anyway, so I've been taking advantage of the free time and keeping busy. At the end of the month I'll have lots of updates; my friend Brooke came to visit, we moved into a new apartment, I've been eating lots of pizza, I went on a trip to Calabria and Sicily with my friend Amy, and as I speak I am going to meet up with my family in Villa Latina. I'll be back in working order along with the rest of Italy in the beginning of September. A presto!

World Cup!

One of the early games at Villa Borghese:



Watching the World Cup games in Italy has been a blast. They would have been even more of a blast if Italy, the reigning champs, hadn't sucked this year and failed to qualify for the second round. But, even still, it was a good time and I was sad to see the World Cup end. It became a community event here in Rome and it left me thinking "now what am I going to do for fun?" when it was over.

In Italy you had to have a special TV channel to watch the game (one that we didn't have) so we often went out for games. Our favorite place: Villa Borghese, a big park on the northwest side of the city. They had a big FIFA Fan Fest TV in Borghese's Piazza Siena surrounded by trees and usually accompanied by a gorgeous sunset where we watched the majority of the games. This was also a great place to meet friends, camp out, and watch the game. It was usually better than a bar because you didn't have to buy a drink. Of course, there were drink and food vendors everywhere selling stuff for ridiculously high price. So, we often brought our own food and drinks to the game. It was also a really great place to meet new people as well. Here's Erich eating some Pasta con Salsiccia:

Occasionally we would go to a pub to watch the games just for a change of pace and a little bit of luxury. The USA v. England game, however; was pretty far from luxurious. We went to a bar right near the city center and I have NEVER seen so many people packed into such a small space before. It was like one big soccer mosh pit. There were people from wall to wall and yet, somehow there was a clear distinction between the fans. England fans had all found each other on the left side of the bar while the US ended up on the right. Ending with a draw was the best thing that could have happened at the end everyone walked away unscathed and thoroughly soaked in beer and sweat. Yum!

This was not the end of packed games. Especially the few times that Italy played; the crowd at Villa Borghese was massive. But once Italy was out of the running, the crowd didn't dwindle as much as I thought it would. Argentina soon became the favorite for many Italians. This is mostly because their coach, Diego Maradona, used to play for the Napoli team so he still holds many people's allegiance (despite the fact that he was one of soccer's most unethical players and coke-head to boot, known for his Hand of God move that allowed his team to win the 1986 world cup game). Even so, he is a glorified hero the world over. So, when Argentina had an incredibly disappointing loss no one knew who to root for next. Most chose Spain :).

A group of Spaniards gather at the Spanish steps after qualifying for the final game:
Although I was rooting for Spain in the end, I was really rooting for all of the African nations first and foremost, mostly because it was an African World Cup and also because I'd like to see someone other than the major soccer super powers in the last rounds of the competition. I also developed a mad crush on the Ivory Coast player Didier Drogba, but that's neither here nor there. Otherwise, I thought that Germany looked great this year, so well-organized and efficient in their games. I thought they were going all the way, but am glad they got 3rd.

The last world cup game at Villa Borghese was packed to the brim:

Overall, I've loved watching the games here in Europe where soccer, or football, is insanely popular. I can't wait for the next world cup in Brazil 2014...maybe I'll even try to be there for it!

Finding Nemi

A few weeks ago we decided to take a day trip to a little town just outside of Rome called Nemi for their annual strawberry festival. We heard about it from Erich's English student and couldn't resist after learning about the many delicious strawberry treats and the dishing out of free strawberries. So Erich, one of my co-workers, and I set out armed with detailed directions by bus, and ready for some sweet treats. Although it was a Sunday, the directions took us step by step to our destination, easy right? WRONG. OF COURSE NOT! This is still Italy after all. So, even though the strawberry festival is a highly anticipated yearly event for people all over Rome and its neighboring cities since the 1920s, it doesn't mean that buses or even taxis will actually transport people there. No, we reached the town of Genzano without problem, but once there found that the only way there was by foot. Up hill. The whole way. In the heat.

Once found, Nemi was well worth the trek. I can't even complain as we picked up a friend, Stefania, on the way who was pushing 70 years old. She was the real trooper. When we got there we found that getting back to Rome would be even more difficult. We inquired after buses that might be coming near, and found that there were none. We even called a cab, and they said that they didn't want to come up there because there would be too much traffic (ha ha!). So right when we arrived we had to make a decision to leave early (and miss the dishing out of the free strawberries) but find more reliable transportation home, or stay and chance it. So chance it we did.
Overlooking a beautiful lake, Nemi is a quaint but lively town made even more so with their signature small, sweet-sour strawberries. The very sight of Lake Nemi made me miss Michigan, especially Torch Lake, all the more. Lake Nemi is not only beautiful, but packed with history. Before leaving I read that Caligula built huge, extravagant ships to sail on the lake UNTIL they were destroyed after his death. BUT WAIT! They were recovered when Mussolini drained the lake in order to retrieve the large vessels and restore them safely in a museum in Nemi. BUT NO! The ships were too soon blown up by the Nazis during WWII leaving no trace of these amazing pieces of history. Oh the suspense! Lost, found, lost.

The strawberries were just as delicious as we anticipated, and as I left town I noticed I had a bit of a stomach ache, or as I like to call it, sugar belly (the feeling one gets after eating WAY too much sugar). This was the goal, the mark of a truly successful day. There was strawberry everything; strawberry pizza, milkshakes, tarts, liquor, ice cream sundaes, sandwiches, cake...everything strawberry under the sun.

The community strawberries were the highlight of the day. They brought in truck loads of strawberries and after much applause and rallying, they emptied the crates into a large vat and topped it with champagne and sugar before handing them out plate by plate to everyone who wanted them. I advocate for more fruit related festivals, it was a great time.

Adventures in Public Transportation (aka learning to chill)

Today I got home from work in 40 minutes, record time! This was a major feat considering just last week it took me two long hours in the grueling heat to get home. So far, catching the bus in Rome is like finding a $5 bill in your winter jacket; you always find it when you don't need it, and it's never there when you do. Three times last week I waited for my bus for just short of an hour. When I complain about the buses being late or entirely absent to my students, co-workers, or friends that have lived here for awhile, their response is always "that's Italy." Everyone is always late, in fact 15 minutes is not considered late, rather it is right on time.

Last week after a particularly tough day of work I saw my bus leaving the stop right as I was approaching. Since I didn't want to wait an hour for the next one I did what any normal person would do; I chased it with all I had in me. I caught up with it long enough to bang on its side a few times and when it still didn't stop I proceeded to trail it waving my arms wildly over my head. Finally, it seemed to take pity on me and stopped. Thank goodness the bus was empty so that no one saw my shameless attempt to catch the bus. The bus driver, however, saw it all and continued to sit with the bus in park laughing at me and reenacting what I looked like chasing the bus for longer than I'd like to remember. He was making the motions and everything (hand slapping bus, arms flailing above my head). Thanks man, glad I could entertain.

This is not my only public transit blunder so far in Rome, not by far. I could probably write a blog based solely on the stupid crap I do day to day. About a month ago I got stuck in the metro doors and had to fish myself out before the metro carried me sandwiched between the thick automatic portals to my certain death. This was the first and last time I tried to listen to music in transit. I totally dazed out while listening to "The Apples" and when I looked up the doors at my metro stop were closing, so instead of a.) pressing the "open" button next to the doors or b.) just relaxing and getting off at the next stop, I decided to lodge myself between the doors and squeeze my body out in sections (chest, arms, legs). Oh to be a fly on the wall at that moment.

Despite these frequent public embarrassments, I'm finally learning the best way to get places. And now that I know it will never be fully reliable, the transit system is teaching me to chill a little bit. Italian culture is very relaxed about time, a characteristic I'm trying to adopt. I now bring my book everywhere I go, so if there is a wait at least I'm enjoying myself. I've also met some of the kindest people at the bus stops. People who have volunteered advice to me not only about the buses or trains, but also about life in Rome. I'm learning the concept that I will get there when I get there, and no amount of worrying is going to help get me there any faster. I'm trying to carry this over to other aspects of my life as well, hoping that I will learn to let go a bit more. So far so good.

ROOTS! parte due

Just a couple more tidbits from my trip to Villa Latina.

This is Gabriele:

He is, among many other things, a multi-instrumentalist and each Sunday goes out with two other guys to play music at various places. He plays the Italian bagpipe (which we were informed is very different from Scottish bagpipes), the accordion, and this little pipe-like instrument the name of which I can't remember. The lady kissing his cheek is his girlfriend, Rosetta.

Erich gave it a try and they dressed him up in the traditional zampognaro garb. Everyone got a kick out of it.

This is where my Dad was baptized, right next to it was the municipal building where I picked up his birth records:

This is the Cantina where my Papa's family lived and worked. It's been vacant much longer than Nonna and Papa's house:

More family! Me with Gabriele's brother Vittorio, Gabriele, and their cousin (my 3rd cousin) Antonino. Below that is cousin Maria and her daughter and grandson (they own a bar called Artu in Atina):

We plan on heading back to Villa Latina in the next couple of weeks to start cleaning up the house and visit more people. Currently, life in Rome is treating us well. It is starting to get really hot and more tourists are coming into the city, but ultimately for us this just means sticking closer to our apartment steering clear of the metro, and eating more gelato to keep cool (rough life, I know). We know how lucky we are to be here.